Every month during the peak season, when new permits for the upcoming month were released (limited to 400 permits per day), the permits would sell out in a matter of minutes, but not always to hikers. In fact, the largest buyers of Half Dome climbing permits were scalpers out to make a buck. Forget concert tickets–the real cash was in the Half Dome permits!

After two years of struggling to overcome these issues, the park service will be implementing a new strategy for Half Dome permits this year. Rather than a first come, first serve situation, those hoping to climb the cables this summer will be able to submit their name (and up to 6 guests) into a lottery for $4.50 online (or $6.50 over the phone). This reservation fee is non-refundable.

If, you submit your name and you are one of the lucky winners, you’ll also shell out a $5 fee per person to confirm your intent to climb the cables. This per-person fee is refundable if you find out you won’t be climbing the cables well in advance of your permit date. If entering the lottery system isn’t your cup of tea, the park service will still be doing short notice permits for those that apply through the online application lottery closer to the date they hope to climb.

The other major change is that the permits will no longer be transferable. This transferability was one of the biggest downfalls of the original system–scalpers were purchasing bunches of permits, and then transferring the tickets to their buyers. Cracking down on this was difficult but the hope is that this new system will prevent these sort of situations again. In addition to the new permits being non-transferable, a ranger will also be stationed at the base of the cables, checking permits against photo IDs. While this may sound drastic, just for a climb, these measures are important, if not a necessity to ensure that all visitors to Yosemite’s Half Dome are not put in danger from overcrowding on the cables.

According to Kari Cobb, park spokeswoman, “the Half Dome hike is the most popular hike in the park because of its popularity, we’ve seen cases of concern for safety. By implementing a permitting program, we not only are providing for the safety of our visitors, but also providing a genuine wilderness experience.”

Read more about the new policy here.

Imagine you are riding your mountain bike up a steep technical climb, when you see three horses coming down the trail towards you. Do you know what to do? What if you are running up your favorite single-track trail, and a line of mountain bikes are coming down towards you?

While guidelines will vary by location, generally the following can be applied to get you thinking in the right direction:

• Hikers, runners, and bikers should always yield to horses
• Bikers should yield to hikers and runners
• Downhill traffic should yield to uphill traffic

When approaching others from lower on the trail, a friendly greeting does wonders to let others know you are coming and common courtesy will always go a long way. From the North America Skills & Ethics Booklet: “Groups leading or riding livestock have the right-of-way on trails. Hikers and bicyclists should move to the downhill side and talk quietly to the riders as they pass, since horses and other pack stock frighten easily.” Additionally, the International Mountain Biking Association recommends, when riding single track, to come to a complete stop and then side step off the trail, as opposed to just riding off the side of trail, and as a result, widening it.

Moving to the downhill side, when letting horses by, reduces your size and appearance. The initial instinct may be to stay on the uphill side of such large animals, but being on the downhill side it makes them less likely to spook. With that in mind, it makes a lot more sense to move downhill! If you find yourself in an awkward or unsafe situation it is always best to communicate with the lead rider to ask them what they prefer, as they know their animals the best.

Of course, there are gray areas. What if a downhill hiker meets an uphill cyclist? The guidelines would say the biker yields, but for most, it’s a lot easier to stop and start hiking than it is when riding. As a result, many generally step off the trail in these encounters when hiking or running. Of course, the cyclist probably shouldn’t have an expectation that the hiker will let the cyclist pass, it might happen out of courtesy. Or what about when an uphill runner meets a large group hiking down the trail? Downhill traffic should yield, but for the solo runner impact of one person stepping off the trail is far less than a large group doing so.

However, the most important part of yielding to other traffic is to remember to always look for safe and durable surfaces to step onto!

The member-driven Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics teaches people of all ages how to enjoy the outdoors responsibly. This Leave No Trace article has been reprinted with the permission of the Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics. For more information, visit: www.LNT.org.

We’re still digging out from under the ice in Seattle. So, today we’re featuring a guest post from David Wilkinson over at Switchback Travel. He recently headed out to Methow Valley in Washington for a cross country ski trip and sent us his thoughts.

The Methow Valley in the North Cascades is just beyond the weekend reach for most Seattlites, enough so that it remains an off the beaten path haven for those who love the outdoors. Rolling ranch land slowly narrows over the course of thirty miles before reaching the sheer walls of a box canyon. The terrain in between, fondly referred to simply as the Methow, elicits the far more famous Telluride in the Colorado Rockies. It’s difficult to say which is a more beautiful place.

The pride of the Methow is the over 200 kilometers of world-class trails used in the winter for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. A relatively flat valley floor is surrounded by high peaks, therefore the snow conditions mimic the mountains but with easy access to outdoor activities. An extensive network of ski trails—the Methow Community Trail and a number of nearby loops—is fastidiously managed and groomed for all levels of experience. The rest of the work is up to you.

The character of the Methow evolves as one heads up-valley and north toward the Cascades. At the mouth is the town of Methow, a dusty throwback to the time before many tourists made it there at all. Next up is Twisp, the most real town in the valley, home to old industry and new establishments serving organic food and microbrews. The next town north from Twisp is Winthrop, the hip tourist heart of the valley dominated by Subarus and historic buildings transformed into outdoor stores, shops, and restaurants. Mazama is the last stop, a prime location with the most snowfall in the valley and some of the premier trails.

For those new to the area or to cross-country skiing, there couldn’t be a better place to learn. Winthrop Sports on the main drag rents and sells all the requisite gear, and they will also get you trail passes and point you in the right direction of where to ski. Much of the terrain is comprised of soft rolling hills ideal for beginners and families. For those with some experience, Jack’s Trail near Mazama offers more change in elevation. The most difficult track is the Rendezvous Hut system, which makes for a great multi-day trip or a challenging 30-km day.

The Methow snow is legendary, but the valley is just as alive in the summer. Fly-fishing shops are abundant and many of the ski trails transform to accommodate hikers and mountain bikers. Eateries and watering holes open their patios, many facing the Methow River. Of course, when the snow melts there is far easier access to the surrounding North Cascades for all kinds of backcountry hiking and camping.

Aside from being active, the Methow Valley is a place to recharge, meet good people, and soak up the laid-back mountain town atmosphere that is not easily replicated. If you stop by the Old Schoolhouse Brewery in Winthrop, one of two Methow breweries, you will likely end up in conversation with those who have made the permanent move there. The ease on their faces suggests that maybe it’s not such a bad idea, and many visitors spend the long drive back brainstorming on just how to make it happen.

More information on cross-country skiing and other activities in the Methow Valley can be found at www.mvsta.com.

It is unknown how and when the subadult elephant seal became entangled but over the last two years the cable has been slowly cutting into his neck and creating a deep wound as he grew. Last week, biologists were finally able to safely capture and sedate the seal, nicknamed “Mr. Elusive,” so that the strap could be removed and the wound could be cleaned. It was no easy task, as a subadult elephant seal can weigh anywhere between 700 and 1000 pounds.

Point Reyes park rangers teamed up with volunteers, veterinarians, and The Marine Mammal Center (TMMC) to capture and sedate the seal when he was spotted near Drake’s Beach. Working quickly, the team was able to sedate and calm the seal while they removed the band and cleaned the wound. Shortly after the wound was cleaned, he returned to the ocean. “Mr. Elusive” is expected to make a full recovery from the wound, according to biologists.

No word on how or where the seal became entangled, but this kind of occurrence happens more frequently than one would hope. Dr. Bill Van Bonn, Director of Veterinary Science at The Marine Mammal Center, said of the incident, “This field disentanglement is the third, in a recent series of northern elephant seals seriously harmed (injured) by negative human interaction, and one that we’ve been able to help. It’s what we all work for, and it’s gratifying when it all goes this smoothly, especially after such a long time tracking this animal.”

Seven years ago, a similar incident happened with a young female elephant seal. She was freed, made a full recovery and every year since has come back to Point Reyes to give birth to her pups. The park rangers, biologists, and veterinarians that freed “Mr. Elusive” expect him to continue returning to the area as he recovers and grows.

Closeup photo: Point Reyes National Seashore

According to police, the hiker then climbed to high point while his wife notified emergency services. What he may have thought were good intentions, did not turn out so well. He lit a small fire to signal authorities, but when the rescue helicopter arrived, the down draft caused the fire to flare up and spread. Fortunately, the small blaze was able to be contained within a few hours by a seven-man crew before it got out of hand.

While the fire never got too out of hand, the story could have ended much worse, but even better yet, it could have been prevented in the first place with a little preparation and the right equipment, like a GPS or emergency beacon. Both items would have made an impact in the prevention in getting lost, and the prevention of the brushfire.

Of course, conditions are considerable different in Australia than here in the Pacific Northwest. While we’re getting our first real snow of the season in Seattle, it’s quite the opposite in Melbourne. During the dry, hot summer months, lighting fires in the brush may not be the smartest idea for notifying rescue teams of your location. Police gave this sage advice: “The advice for anyone lighting a fire on bush land is always to exercise extreme caution – but obviously there are circumstances when people are lost and need to draw the attention of emergency services.”

Read more in the Herald Sun.

While the ban is seen as a win by Interior Secretary Ken Salazar, environmental and preservation groups, and Democratic politicians, those in the mining industry and on the other side of the aisle are saying that the ban hinders job creation in the area. Senator John McCain even went so far as to say that the ban was a “devastating blow to job creation in northern Arizona.”

Those are some pretty bold words, considering that the Grand Canyon area is one of the top tourist destinations in the country. Marring the natural landscape with mining claims is likely to have taken away some of the natural wonder of the area, as many supporters of the ban believed.

The mining industry has had its eye on the area for quite some time. With about 40-percent of the country’s known uranium reserves, the area is worth tens of billions of dollars if it contains as much uranium ore as they claim.

While the new ban will prevent any new mining claims from starting up in the area, there are about 3,000 current claims that will not be affected by the ban. It’s estimated that of these 3,000 claims, only a handful will actually be developed into mines.

When it comes down to it, the ban on mining claims will only reduce the overall uranium production in our country by six percent. And the devastating blow to job creation? About 450 jobs total will not be created because of the mining ban–much less than the public was led to believe by those against the ban. Is the creation of less than 500 jobs worth the risk of polluting and destroying the drinking water, when over 26 million people in four states rely on the water from the Colorado River for drinking? I’m not so sure it is.

For more on the story, click here.

Initially, waxing your own skis may seem like a daunting task, but the few hazards (like burning your bases) are easily avoided with proper technique and care. The benefits of waxing your skis yourself far outweigh the cons–you’ll save yourself the cash you are shelling out to ski shops to do it for you (after the initial set up costs), you’ll get to really know your skis, and experience the fruits of your labor on the slopes.

Here’s what you’ll need to get started:

- A ski vise (or some way to hold the skis steady while waxing them)
- A waxing iron (with adjustable temperature dial)
- Ski wax (of the appropriate temperature)
- Plastic scraper
- Nylon structure brush
- Drop cloth or plastic bags to “contain” the scraped wax (optional)

Before you get started, make sure your skis have come to room temperature. If you’ve just come in from a day of skiing, you’ll want to dry them off and wait till they warm up a bit. If you don’t wait for the skis to warm up, the wax won’t adhere properly. Once your skis are room temperature, set up all your supplies, plug in your waxing iron and set it to the temperature indicated on the box of ski wax. The scraping part of waxing skis can be quite messy, so you might want to set up a drop cloth or lay down some trash bags to catch the excess wax.

While you’re waiting for the iron to warm up, secure the first ski. We use a ski-specific vise that clamps onto the edge of a workbench, but there are larger free-standing models on the market as well. Give the ski a quick wipe down with a cloth to make sure it is free of dirt and debris before you start the process.

By now, your iron should be warmed up and ready to go. Heat the wax against the iron until it begins to melt, dripping it onto the entire length of the base of your ski. It’s better to go light on this step because you can always add more wax if you don’t have enough. If you use too much, you’ll be scraping your skis for a while to get rid of all that excess! If the wax ever starts to smoke as you’re melting it, turn down the temperature on the waxing iron.

Once you’ve dripped the wax onto your ski, smooth it over the base using the iron. The trick with this step is to go slow enough to let the wax be absorbed into the base, but not slow enough to burn your base.

Always keep the iron moving! The general rule of thumb is to have about an inch or two of melted wax behind your iron as you move along the base. Any more than that, and your iron is too hot; any less than that and your iron is too cool.

If you find that you need more wax in an area, drip some more onto the base in that area, and then continue smoothing the wax along the base with the iron. Your skis should look like this (image, left–click to enlarge) when you’ve finished this step.

After you’ve finished the first ski, remove it from the vise and repeat the same exact process with the remaining ski.

After you’ve applied the wax to both skis, turn off the iron and let the bases cool down to room temperature. Once they have cooled down completely, it’s time to start scraping.

Secure the first ski in the ski vise and grab your plastic scraper (always use plastic scrapers–metal scrapers can damage your base). Make sure there aren’t any burrs or dings on the edge of the scraper–that will be bad news when you’re trying to scrape the wax. Hold the scraper at about a 45-degree angle to the ski and move from the tip to the tail in overlapping motions. You can periodically wipe away the excess wax as it is being removed. It’s okay to scrape back and forth to remove wax from tricky spots, like the tip and tail. You’ll want to scrape the bulk of the wax you just added off the base. Once you’ve done that, use the notched corner of the scraper to remove any wax that melted onto the metal edges of your skis.

While you have the first ski in the vise, grab your nylon structure brush and buff the base only from tip to tail (direction matters in this step!). This last step buffs the wax out of any nooks and crannies on the base and creates miniature grooves in the base. These little grooves will reduce suction and improve performance (both turning and speed). Your first ski is ready to go–to complete the entire process, just repeat the scraping and buffing steps on the other ski.

So now you’ve waxed your skis! Once you get the hang of it, the process should only take about 20-30 minutes (not including time waiting for wax and skis to cool down before scraping). Plus, you’ll see the benefits on your next day on the slopes.

So how often should you wax your skis? While there is a bit of personal preference, we usually wax our skis about every five days of skiing. (We tend to ski pretty hard and it’s not always the best of conditions–this season has seen lots of icy slopes and thin snowpack). On the other end of the spectrum, if you aren’t skiing hard days, or if you’re skiing on really soft, lovely, groomed trails, you might be able to get away with waxing after about ten days of skiing. We wouldn’t recommend waxing your skis any less frequently than that.

In Grand Teton NP, the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center (12 miles north of Jackson, Wyoming) will be open for winter hours (9am-5pm daily). For winter-sports enthusiasts, there is plenty to do, from snowshoeing to backcountry and cross country skiing to mountaineering. Keep in mind that permits will be required for all overnight trips in the backcountry. After the Christmas holiday, there will be ranger-led snowshoe hikes daily at 1:30pm. Previous experience with snowshoeing is not necessary, and snowshoes are provided (a donation of $5 is requested). If you’re planning on taking part in the ranger-led hikes, be sure to make a reservation by calling 307.739.3399.

In Yellowstone National Park, commercially-guided snowmobile and snowcoaches will begin to serve the public between the park’s South Entrance and Old Faithful. Travel beyond this area by commercially-guided vehicles will be subject to additional restrictions until the park has received more snow. In the coming weeks, officials will be developing a Supplemental Environmental Impact Statement (EIS) to complete the long-term plan for winter-use in Yellowstone, with the hope that it will be available for public comment in early 2012.

There are a number of passes available to visit the parks:

• $5 Day Pass valid for one-day entry into Grand Teton
• $25 Seven-day Pass valid for single vehicle entry into Grand Teton and Yellowstone
• $50 Grand Teton/Yellowstone Annual Pass valid for one year entry into both parks
• $80 Interagency Annual Pass valid for one year entry to all federal land management fee areas

Read more in the press releases for Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks.

According to the recall notice, “a defect in lithium-polymer rechargeable battery packs (Columbia Part: 054978-001) sold with three models of Omni-Hea Electric (“OHE”) jackets. The defect could cause the battery packs to overheat, which could pose a risk of fire. Two battery packs were included with each jacket. The defective batteries were included with jackets that were distributed to approximately 20 consumers between July 2011 to September 2011.”

The three jacket styles being referenced are:

• Omni-Heat Electric Wader Widgeon Interchange (HM7197)
• Omni-Heat Electric Big Game Interchange (HM7198)
• Omni-Heat Electric Gale Warning I/C (FM7323)

The recall does not affect any Omni-Heat products purchased after November 1, 2011, or Omni-Heat boots or gloves.

If you have one of the above Omni-Heat jackets, you should refer to the official recall notice by the US Consumer Product Safety Commission. Those with further questions and concerns can call Columbia at 800-622-6953 or email columbia@custhelp.com.

Columbia recall notice available here.

The Primetorch 1010 is tiny–measuring in at only 1 inch in diameter and 3 inches long and weighing under 2 ounces, it’s hard to believe that it puts out 130 lumens (thanks to the powerful Cree Q4 diode). That’s A LOT of light, making the Primetorch the brightest flashlight I have ever used. The compact and sturdy aluminum casing is built to last, and has a military-grade feel to it. That can be most likely attributed to what Primus calls the “tactical switch” used to turn the light on and off. Rather than a slider on the side of the light, there is a bright red button on the end of the light, designed for signaling. While you hope you’ll never need it for that, the bright light is sure to be seen if you do happen to get lost and need to signal for help. For everyday use, the tactical switch is easy to use, and harder to accidentally turn off and on.

The Primetorch is powered by one Lithium CR-123 battery, which comes with the flashlight (as well as a belt holster). Battery life runs about 3 hours, so if you plan on taking it with you for an extended time, you’ll want to bring a few extra batteries, which aren’t cheap (about $5 each). For the peace of mind, I think it’s worth it, though.

The Primetorch 1010 may look like a great stocking stuffer on the outside, but it will cost you. With an MSRP of $66, it’s not cheap. A quick internet search yielded a few sites listing it for around $50, so you can pick it up for a bit less. With that being said, the Primetorch is tough enough that it should last you a long time–there are reports of people running it over accidentally with their car and it continues to work, though we didn’t take our testing that far so I can’t confirm the validity of that statement!

Product provided by the manufacturer for review purposes.